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Member#: 6644 Location: Registered: 27-05-2007 Diary Entries: 3378
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7th May 2012
Hiking - Walking: Carmargue Wind Direction: Wind Stength: Surf / Sea State: Air Temperature: Sea Temperature: Weather: sunny Max Speed: Distance Covered:
Sunday 6th May 2012 – sighseeing, shopping and Wi-Fi at Mc Donald’s –
sunny periods
We packed up, left the beach and actually managed to find a way out that
didn’t involve going through water that was too deep or scratching the
van through a width restriction (lots of strategically placed rocks making
a narrow entrance/exit which seems ridiculous when there are hundreds of
cars, vans and campers on the beach and they can drive on in any number of
different ways but nearly all involve going through water. The only dry
way is through the rocks!). The road back was just as bumpy but we did
spot several birds we hadn’t seen this holiday. Some of the flamingos
were really close and we saw a flock of about 200 take off - it was a real
sight – a pink cloud! As we are nearly out of fresh food and it is
another bank holiday in France either tomorrow or Tuesday we thought we
would go to Arles. French supermarkets are a bit hit and miss on a Sunday
but some stay open until 12.30. We got to Arles at about 12.15 (it took
lots longer than we expected) and although there were signs to all the
major supermarkets they all disappeared once we were in the town centre!
Eventually we found an Intermarche open and ran in. Got all we wanted and
were at the checkout at exactly 12.30. Phew! Got some diesel and as
McDonalds was next door went and used their internet and electricity to do
the usual computer stuff. Drove to a good spot beside the Grand Rhone
River and had our lunch. Moved along a bit nearer town and walked over the
bridge into the old town. We were really surprised about by the number of
Roman historical buildings and even paid to go into the Amphi theatre which
is still in use for Bull fighting! This means that there are some ugly
racks of new seats at the top of the building but other than that it is a
real spectacle. With arches all round the top and tunnels and corridors
running round the outside and inside it is virtually perfect. You could
really feel the history and imagine gladiators etc.. We made sure we went
round the whole thing. There were some bits you couldn’t visit because
they are in the process of restoring it but this meant we got a reduced
entrance :) We walked back through the old streets and past the Roman
theatre antique to the van. Drove to Van Gough’s bridge which is on the
outskirts of the town (apparently he was in hospital in Arles and painted
the bridge). We had a cuppa, a quick walk and saw a fantastic red kite
(bird not kite kite!). We thought about staying here but it didn’t feel
quite right so we drove back to the Etang du Vaccares which we passed
earlier in the day and watched the sunset before parking up and having tea
:)
Monday 7th May 2012 – walking **** sunny
Bit of a disturbed night because there are bird scarers around the Etang to
stop the birds eating the rice crop – the Carmargue is the biggest
producer of rice in France and there are crops at various stages all around
the main Etangs. Some fields are just flooded with nothing to see but
water and some plants are about 2 feet high so they must stagger the
planting. We did lots of birdwatching before breakfast and saw a Sardinian
warbler and a red backed shrike – both new to us :) There were two coypu
in the dyke we were sitting by too :) After breakfast we drove round the
Etang and stopped at the Domaine Mejane where there is a ranch with a bull
ring and corrals for the bulls, lots of Carmargue horses saddled up ready
for people to ride, bigger horses pulling old fashioned caravans and a
train which gives tours round a track next to the Etang. We thought it
would be a bit Disney and expected to carry straight on but it was very
tastefully done and they had a brilliant loo too - we took advantage and
filled up our water tank :) Walked their sentier to the Etang du Vaccares
and were treated to a great display by a coypu who was sitting munching his
way through a reed as if we weren’t there. He was moving the reed round
and round in his little feet and gnawing away :) Walked further and saw
some beautiful birds with virtually see through gold wings flying with the
swallows. We didn’t have a clue what they could be but took notice of
all the markings and beak to have a look at the book when we got back (they
were bee eaters! They have the most amazing colours on their body and we
wished the sun had been at a different angle so we could have seen that
properly – we hope to see them again to have another look!). We also saw
a reed warbler – another first. Carried on past lots of ranches with
horses ready to take you for a ride, and had a quick look at the petit
Rhone River. Got to Stes Maries de la Mer where we assumed (wrongly!) that
we would be able to park on the beach again. It is obvious really because
this is the only town on the coast in the whole of the Carmargue so it is
very popular, has its own bull ring, and a nice little town. Everything
has again been very tastefully done and we were impressed with it.
Unfortunately it also means that they don’t want camper vans cluttering
up their view and have even worded their signs to say ‘no habitable
vehicles’ so our usual defence of not being one of those huge ugly
camping cars will not work here! They have provided a really good aire
(which had over 60 vans in it packed in like sardines!) and you can also
drive on past that part of the aire to park really near the beach further
up but you still have to pay 9.50 euros. We parked up at the other end of
the town and had lunch then spent a couple of hours on the beach reading
and dozing in the sun:) Walked into the town along the beach, past the
marina and bull ring and out the other side to see the camper aire. Came
back through the narrow streets and shops to look in the church which had a
crypt underneath with hundreds of lit candles – you could feel the heat
as soon as you went through the tunnel! Returned to the van along the
Etang and past some of the traditional houses which have half their roof
thatched. Had a cuppa and saw a shepherd bring his sheep up the beach
road to graze on the grass by the side of the main road! Left there and
had a bit of a ride round and finally found a great place to stop down a
track which you are not supposed to drive on but everyone appears to
anyway! It is a link road from the town to the ranch we were at this
morning. It has a great view over the Etang towards the town and a field
of bulls with bells round their neck (hmm could be another disturbed night
lol) which looked great in the sunset :)
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